:root{--cream:#f6efe3;--ink:#16212b;--teal:#0f2b3a;--coral:#d94a2f;--coral-l:#f08a6e;--mute:#6a6359;--line:#ddd3c2;--serif:"Cormorant Garamond","Instrument Serif",Georgia,serif;--sans:Inter,system-ui,sans-serif}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--cream);color:var(--ink);font:1rem/1.65 var(--sans);overflow-x:hidden}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}a{color:var(--coral)}
a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--coral);outline-offset:3px}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;line-height:1.04;letter-spacing:-.01em;margin:0}
/* cabecera */
.top{position:relative;text-align:center;padding:1.4rem 1rem 1rem}
.mark{font:400 clamp(2.6rem,7vw,4.2rem)/1 var(--serif);color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;margin:0;display:inline-block}
.navwrap{position:relative;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--cream);z-index:20}
.cats{display:flex;gap:.2rem 2rem;overflow-x:auto;padding:0 clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem);scrollbar-width:none}.cats::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
@media(min-width:60rem){.cats{justify-content:center}}
.mi{font:500 .98rem var(--sans);color:var(--ink);background:none;border:0;border-bottom:3px solid transparent;padding:.95rem 0 .8rem;cursor:pointer;white-space:nowrap;text-decoration:none}
.mi:hover,.mi[aria-expanded=true]{border-bottom-color:var(--coral)}.mi.lnk{color:var(--mute)}
.mp{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;top:100%;background:var(--cream);border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);box-shadow:0 18px 30px -18px rgba(22,33,43,.35);max-height:70vh;overflow:auto;padding:1.5rem clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem) 2rem}
.mp[hidden]{display:none}
.cols{display:grid;gap:.4rem 3rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(17rem,1fr));max-width:80rem;margin:0 auto}.cols.one{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,44rem);justify-content:start}
.co summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:1rem;font:400 1.7rem/1.2 var(--serif);padding:.45rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.co summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.co summary span{font:500 .85rem var(--sans);color:var(--mute)}
.co summary:hover{color:var(--coral)}details.co[open] summary{border-bottom-color:var(--ink)}
.ent{list-style:none;margin:.3rem 0 .6rem;padding:0}.ent li{padding:.3rem 0;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.35}.ent a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}.ent a:hover{color:var(--coral);text-decoration:underline}
.ver{display:inline-block;font:600 .9rem var(--sans);margin:.2rem 0 1rem}.sub{color:var(--mute);margin:.2rem 0 .5rem;font-size:.9rem}
/* portada */
.hero{position:relative;height:clamp(30rem,86vh,54rem);background:var(--teal)}
.hero img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 55%}
.hero:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(transparent 50%,rgba(8,25,38,.78))}
.ov{position:absolute;z-index:1;left:clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem);right:clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem);bottom:clamp(1.5rem,5vw,3.5rem);color:#fff}
.ov h1{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,4.4vw,4.2rem);max-width:15ch;text-wrap:balance;text-shadow:0 2px 24px rgba(8,25,38,.45)}.ov p{margin:.9rem 0 0;font-size:1.05rem;opacity:.92}@media(min-width:56rem){.ov h1{max-width:none}}
.mapa{background:var(--teal);color:var(--cream);padding:clamp(3rem,8vw,6.5rem) clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem)}
.mapa .inner{max-width:92rem;margin:0 auto}.mapa h2{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,6.5vw,5.2rem)}
.mapa h2{margin-bottom:2rem}
#map{position:relative;width:100%;aspect-ratio:2/1}@media(min-width:56rem){#map{aspect-ratio:21/9}}
.datamaps-subunit.ATA{display:none}
.datamaps-bubble{cursor:pointer}
.datamaps-hoverover{position:absolute;z-index:5;pointer-events:none}.datamaps-hoverover:empty{display:none}
.hoverinfo{background:var(--cream);color:var(--ink);font:500 .88rem var(--sans);padding:.4rem .7rem;white-space:nowrap}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.55rem;margin-top:2rem}
.chip{display:inline-block;font:500 .95rem var(--sans);padding:.55rem 1rem;border:1px solid rgba(246,239,227,.4);color:var(--cream);text-decoration:none;border-radius:2rem}
.chip span{opacity:.65;margin-left:.45rem}.chip:hover{background:var(--coral);border-color:var(--coral);color:#fff}
.strip{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}@media(min-width:56rem){.strip{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr)}}
.strip img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:3/4;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 60%}
.sobre{display:grid;gap:1.5rem;max-width:78rem;margin:0 auto;padding:clamp(3.5rem,8vw,7rem) clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem)}
@media(min-width:56rem){.sobre{grid-template-columns:1fr 1.6fr;gap:5rem}}
.sobre h2{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,6vw,5rem)}.txt p{margin:0 0 1.15rem;font-size:1.08rem;line-height:1.85;max-width:40rem}.txt .who{font:400 2rem/1.1 var(--serif);margin:0 0 1.3rem}
/* listas por país */
main>.head,main>.lista,main>#list,main>#none{max-width:62rem;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;padding-left:clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem);padding-right:clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem)}
.head{margin-top:3rem}.head h1{font-size:clamp(3rem,8vw,5.6rem)}.head p{color:var(--mute);margin:.6rem 0 0}
.where{font:500 .9rem var(--sans);margin:0 0 .6rem;color:var(--mute)}.where a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}.where a:hover{color:var(--coral)}
.lista{list-style:none;margin:2.5rem auto 5rem;padding:0}
.lista li{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:.2rem 2rem;padding:1rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.lista li:first-child{border-top:1px solid var(--ink)}
.lista a{font:400 1.55rem/1.2 var(--serif);color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;max-width:40rem}.lista a:hover{color:var(--coral)}
.lista time{font:.88rem var(--sans);color:var(--mute)}
/* buscador */
.s{display:block;margin-top:1.5rem;max-width:32rem;font:500 .9rem var(--sans)}.s input{display:block;width:100%;margin-top:.4rem;padding:.85rem 1rem;font:1rem var(--sans);border:1px solid var(--ink);background:#fff;color:var(--ink)}
#list{margin-bottom:5rem}#list h2{margin-top:2.5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding-top:1rem;font-size:2.2rem}
.arch{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.arch li{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;gap:.2rem 1.5rem;padding:.7rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.arch a{color:var(--ink);font-weight:500;text-decoration:none}.arch a:hover{color:var(--coral)}.arch span{font-size:.88rem;color:var(--mute)}
/* entradas */
main>.post{max-width:44rem;margin:3rem auto 0;padding:0 clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem)}
.post header h1{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,7vw,4.6rem)}.meta{font:.88rem var(--sans);color:var(--mute);margin:.9rem 0 0;display:flex;gap:1rem;flex-wrap:wrap}
.post .cover{width:min(78rem,100vw - 2rem);max-width:none;margin:2rem 0 2rem 50%;transform:translateX(-50%);aspect-ratio:16/9;object-fit:cover}
.prose{font-size:1.12rem;line-height:1.8;margin-top:2rem}.prose h2,.prose h3,.prose h4{margin:2.4rem 0 .8rem}.prose p{margin:0 0 1.3rem}.prose img{margin:1.6rem auto}
.prose figure{margin:1.6rem 0}.prose figcaption{font-size:.88rem;color:var(--mute)}.prose blockquote{margin:1.6rem 0;padding-left:1.2rem;border-left:3px solid var(--coral);font:400 1.5rem/1.35 var(--serif)}
.gal,.wp-block-gallery,.blocks-gallery-grid,.tiled-gallery__gallery{display:grid!important;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(10.5rem,1fr));gap:.4rem;list-style:none;padding:0;margin:1.6rem 0}
.tiled-gallery__row,.tiled-gallery__col,.wp-block-gallery figure,.tiled-gallery__item,.blocks-gallery-item{display:contents}
.gal img,.wp-block-gallery img,.tiled-gallery__item img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover;margin:0}
.video{position:relative;aspect-ratio:16/9;margin:1.6rem 0}.video iframe{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;border:0}
.pn{display:grid;gap:1rem;margin:3rem 0 5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding-top:1.5rem}@media(min-width:40rem){.pn{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.pn a:last-child:nth-child(1){grid-column:2}}
.pn a{text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font:400 1.5rem/1.15 var(--serif)}.pn a:hover{color:var(--coral)}.pn span{display:block;font:.85rem var(--sans);color:var(--mute);margin-bottom:.3rem}
footer{text-align:center;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);padding:2.5rem clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem);font-size:.95rem;color:var(--mute)}
footer .mark{font-size:2rem}footer p{margin:.4rem 0}footer a{margin:0 .7rem;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap;display:inline-block}footer a:hover{color:var(--coral)}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:no-preference){.mi{transition:border-color .15s}}

.soc{position:absolute;right:clamp(.6rem,3vw,2.5rem);top:50%;transform:translateY(-45%);display:flex;gap:.5rem}
.soc a{display:grid;place-items:center;width:2.6rem;height:2.6rem;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:50%;color:var(--ink)}
.soc a:hover{background:var(--coral);border-color:var(--coral);color:#fff}
@media(max-width:34rem){.soc{gap:.3rem}.soc a{width:2.3rem;height:2.3rem}.mark{font-size:2.3rem}}

/* línea editorial: cabecera en una fila */
.hd{position:relative;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:1rem;padding:.6rem clamp(1rem,3vw,2.5rem);background:var(--cream);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);z-index:30}
.hd .mark{font:400 clamp(2.4rem,3.4vw,3.1rem)/1 'Pinyon Script',var(--serif);flex:none}
.hd .navwrap{position:static;flex:1;border:0;background:none}
.hd .cats{gap:.1rem 1.5rem;justify-content:center;padding:0;align-items:center}
.hd .mi{font:500 .78rem var(--sans);letter-spacing:.09em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:1.1rem 0 .9rem}
.hd .mi.lnk{color:var(--ink)}.hd .lupa{display:grid;place-items:center;padding:.6rem .2rem}
.hd .mi[aria-controls]:after{content:"";display:inline-block;width:.35em;height:.35em;border:solid currentColor;border-width:0 1.5px 1.5px 0;transform:rotate(45deg) translateY(-2px);margin-left:.5em}
.hd .soc{position:static;transform:none;flex:none}.hd .soc a{width:2.3rem;height:2.3rem}
.mp{top:100%}
@media(max-width:68rem){.hd{flex-wrap:wrap}.hd .soc{margin-left:auto}.hd .navwrap{order:3;flex:1 0 100%;margin:0 -.4rem}.hd .cats{justify-content:flex-start;overflow-x:auto}}
.ov h1{font-family:var(--serif)}.ov h1 em{display:block;font:400 1.1em/1.15 'Pinyon Script',var(--serif);font-style:normal;margin-top:.1em}
.conts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);background:var(--cream);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.conts a{padding:1.6rem .5rem;text-align:center;font:400 1.05rem/1.3 var(--serif);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;border-left:1px solid var(--line);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.conts a:hover{color:var(--coral)}
@media(min-width:56rem){.conts{grid-template-columns:repeat(6,1fr)}.conts a{border-top:0;padding:2.2rem .5rem}.conts a:first-child{border-left:0}}

.chips{display:none}
.hero:after{background:linear-gradient(transparent 62%,rgba(8,25,38,.38))}
.hero img{object-position:50% 50%}
@media(min-width:56rem){.ov h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.3vw,3.2rem)}}
.hero:after{background:linear-gradient(transparent 50%,rgba(8,25,38,.78))}.hero img{object-position:50% 55%}

/* línea editorial clara */
body{background:#faf6ee}
h1,h2,h3{font-weight:500;letter-spacing:0}
.hd .mark{font:italic 500 clamp(2rem,2.8vw,2.5rem)/1 var(--serif);display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start}
.hd .mark small{font:500 .52rem var(--sans);font-style:normal;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-top:.45rem;color:var(--ink)}
.hd .mi{font:500 1.02rem var(--serif);letter-spacing:0;text-transform:none}
.hd{background:#faf6ee}
.hero{height:clamp(22rem,58vh,36rem)}
.hero:after{background:linear-gradient(transparent 55%,rgba(8,25,38,.5))}
.ov h1{font-weight:500;font-size:clamp(2.4rem,4.4vw,4rem)}@media(min-width:56rem){.ov h1{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,4.4vw,4rem)}}
.ov h1 em{font:italic 500 1em/1.1 var(--serif);margin-top:0}
.conts{background:#faf6ee}
.conts a{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:.5rem;font:500 .8rem var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;padding:1.4rem .5rem;border-top:0}
.conts a i{font:normal 1.4rem/1 var(--sans)}
.conts a:first-child{background:#efe6d6}
.mapa{background:#faf6ee;color:var(--ink);padding:clamp(2.5rem,6vw,4.5rem) clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem)}
.mapa .inner{max-width:78rem}.mapa h2{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,5vw,4rem);margin-bottom:1.5rem}
.mbox{border:1px solid #d9cdb4;background:#efeae0;padding:1rem}
.chip{border-color:var(--ink);color:var(--ink)}
.sobre{max-width:78rem;align-items:center}
.sobre figure{margin:0}.sobre figure img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/5;object-fit:cover}
@media(min-width:56rem){.sobre{grid-template-columns:5fr 6fr;gap:4.5rem}}
.sobre h2{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,5vw,4rem);margin-bottom:1.3rem}
.txt p{color:#4a443c}
.hero img{object-position:50% 80%}.ov{bottom:clamp(1rem,3vw,2rem)}.sobre figure{width:100%}

/* sobre mí + fotos */
.f2{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:.4rem;padding:0 .4rem}.f2 img,.fr img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:3/4;object-fit:cover}
.fr{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:.4rem;padding:.4rem}
.sobre{display:block;padding:clamp(2.5rem,7vw,4rem) clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem)}.car{display:none}
@media(min-width:56rem){
 .f2,.fr{display:none}
 .sobre{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:5rem;align-items:center;max-width:78rem;margin:0 auto;padding:clamp(3.5rem,7vw,6rem) clamp(1rem,4vw,3rem)}
 .car{display:block;position:relative}
 .trk{display:flex;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;scrollbar-width:none}.trk::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
 .sl{flex:0 0 100%;scroll-snap-align:start}.sl img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/5;object-fit:cover}
 .cb{position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);width:2.8rem;height:2.8rem;border-radius:50%;border:0;background:rgba(250,246,238,.9);color:var(--ink);font-size:1.2rem;cursor:pointer}.cb:hover{background:var(--coral);color:#fff}
 .prev{left:.8rem}.next{right:.8rem}
}
.hd .navwrap{min-width:0}@media(max-width:68rem){.hd .navwrap{max-width:calc(100% + .8rem)}.hd .cats{padding:0 .4rem}}

/* mapa acuarela */
.acu{position:relative;aspect-ratio:2000/1405;max-width:70rem;margin:0 auto}
.acu img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:contain;mix-blend-mode:multiply}
.pin{position:absolute;transform:translate(-50%,-50%);width:2.6rem;height:2.6rem;display:grid;place-items:center;text-decoration:none}
.pin i{width:.95rem;height:.95rem;border-radius:50%;background:#fff;border:3px solid var(--coral);box-shadow:0 0 0 4px rgba(217,74,47,.18);transition:transform .15s}
.pin:hover i,.pin:focus-visible i{transform:scale(1.35)}
.pin span{position:absolute;bottom:100%;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%);white-space:nowrap;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;font:500 .82rem var(--sans);padding:.3rem .65rem;border-radius:.25rem;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transition:opacity .15s}
.pin:hover span,.pin:focus-visible span{opacity:1}
@media(max-width:40rem){.pin{width:2.2rem;height:2.2rem}.pin i{width:.75rem;height:.75rem;border-width:2px}}
#map.acu{aspect-ratio:1950/1405}

.hd .mark small{display:none}
.ham{flex:none;width:2.6rem;height:2.6rem;border:0;background:none;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;gap:.32rem;padding:.6rem;cursor:pointer}
.ham i{display:block;height:2px;background:var(--ink);transition:transform .2s}.ham:hover i{background:var(--coral)}
.dov{position:fixed;inset:0;background:rgba(22,33,43,.4);z-index:90}.dov[hidden],.drawer[hidden]{display:none}
.drawer{position:fixed;top:0;right:0;bottom:0;width:min(22rem,88vw);background:#faf6ee;z-index:100;overflow-y:auto;padding:1.2rem 1.5rem 3rem;box-shadow:-18px 0 40px -20px rgba(22,33,43,.4)}
.dh{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;margin-bottom:.8rem}.dh b{font:500 2rem var(--serif)}
.dx{border:0;background:none;font-size:2rem;line-height:1;cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink)}
.drawer h3{font:600 .72rem var(--sans);letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mute);margin:1.4rem 0 .3rem}
.drawer ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.drawer li a{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;padding:.45rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font:500 1.35rem/1.2 var(--serif);color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}
.drawer li a:hover{color:var(--coral)}.drawer li span{font:500 .8rem var(--sans);color:var(--mute);align-self:center}
@media(max-width:68rem){.hd .soc{margin-left:auto}.hd .ham{order:2}.hd .soc{order:1}}
@media(max-width:34rem){.hd{gap:.2rem;padding-inline:.7rem}.hd .mark{font-size:1.9rem}.hd .soc{gap:.25rem}.hd .soc a{width:2.1rem;height:2.1rem}.ham{width:2.2rem;padding:.5rem .4rem}}
.pin span{display:none}.pin:hover span,.pin:focus-visible span{display:block}.mapa{overflow-x:clip}

/* collage */
.col{display:none}
@media(min-width:56rem){
 .col{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(6,1fr);grid-auto-rows:11.5rem;gap:.5rem}
 .col img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;aspect-ratio:auto}
 .col img:nth-child(1){grid-column:span 4;grid-row:span 2}
 .col img:nth-child(n+2):nth-child(-n+6){grid-column:span 2}
 .col img:nth-child(7),.col img:nth-child(8){grid-column:span 3}
 .col img:nth-child(1){object-position:50% 60%}
}
.prose p:empty{display:none}